During the first week of operation the pool should be brushed three to four times a day and the filtration system should run 24 hours per day. Do not operate the automatic pool cleaner for the first two weeks after start up. During weeks two through five it is strongly recommended to brush one to two times a day or until all loose material, from the curing plaster, is removed from the surface of the plaster. Excessive amounts of loose material may also require hand vacuuming to be removed faster. This will normally result in pressure build up in the filter making it necessary to clean the filter elements after the first five to seven day of operation. See the following section on vacuum and filter cleaning for instructions.
Without proper brushing, plaster is likely to become rough and discolored from standing loose material, dirt and debris.
Your filter elements will need to be cleaned frequently for the first few weeks of operation. It is important to clean in between the pleats of the filter elements to remove any plaster dust that could harden. After the initial two-week period is completed the filtration system may be set to operate for normal seasonal and pool size requirements and the cleaner may be installed.
Your pool has been treated by our service technician, with an initial chemical treatment consistent with the chemical requirements of the city water supply with which your pool was filled. Since the curing process of the plaster, environmental conditions, bather load, ect. have an impact on the pool water, it requires that you monitor your water chemistry daily throughout the first few weeks. Then 2 to 3 times a week thereafter as needed.
You have been provided with a simple to use test kit, which will allow you to test for the pH and chlorine levels in your pool water. It is recommended that you store your test kit out of sunlight and that you replace the test kit every 12 months. You may not have used up all the chemicals in the kit, but they should be replaced for the kit to remain accurate. If you wish, you may take a small bottle of water to one of the many pool supply outlets where, normally, they win test the water at no cost and inform you of its quality. Also, please read the guides section on water chemistry.
The main circulation pump is wired directly through a mechanical time clock, which can be set to turn on and off the pump at specific times every day. The clock should first be set to the proper time of day then the on and off times can be set. Hand tighten the tabs to your preferred time settings. Use the silver tab for on and the gold tab for off.
Summer: 8-10 hours suggested 8am to 4 pm
Winter: 6-8 hours suggested midnight to 6 am
The pump circulates water from the pool through the filter and heater and back to the pool. The basket in the pump pot needs to be cleaned periodically. If you do not keep it clean, the debris can inhibit the suction ability of the pump and will not get effective circulation and cleaning. The following instructions walk you through this maintenance.
If water dose not circulate, repeat steps I through 6 making sure pump lid is seated snugly, "O" ring is cleaned and properly lubricated, water level in the pool is at the proper level and all valves are set to the proper positions. See Pump troubleshooting.
As water flows through, the filter cartridges remove small particulate matter from the water. Over-time, the filter cartridges become caked with this debris and will need to be cleaned. The cleaning frequency will depend on how dirty the water is from pool use, winds and rain. As the filter cartridges get filled with debris the pressure inside the filter builds and the effectiveness of the system diminishes. You should note the pressure of your system when the cartridges are clean. Once the pressure has increased by 8 to IO pounds, it is time to clean the cartridges.
NOTE: If you have a in floor cleaning system run the pump for I or 2 minutes, then turn off the pump and pump breaker loosen the union located at the top of the dome that controls the in floor pop-ups remove and clean the screen of any debris that may have gotten past the filter while cleaning.
The basket of the skimmer must be checked regularly for debris. The effectiveness of the filtration system will be inhibited if the basket is blocked by debris. The pipe from the floor drain goes into the bottom of the skimmer. Your system includes a dome shaped valve with a sliding tab in the bottom of your skimmer that regulates the amount of suction to the skimmer and floor drain. If you have a Pool Vac™ or Kreepy Krauly™ style cleaner you want this tab to be wide open. Close the tab only when you want to maximize the suction to the floor drain. Always clean skimmer of debris after high winds.
The auto-fill is designed to help keep your pool water level at the proper height. There may be times when the float sticks and the water level becomes too high, or too low. If this happens open the cover to the auto-fill and push the float up and down several times to dislodge whatever debris is causing it to stick. If the float moves freely but water level is still too high, or too low see the instructions under auto-fill in the trouble shooting section.
Your pool/spa lights are connected to a Ground Fault Interrupter (GFI), which will trip if any electrical problems exist with the lights. It may also trip if other appliances are plugged into the GFI, or if lightning strikes near your neighborhood. If your light ceases to work, first check the GFI by pushing the "Test" then "Reset" buttons on the face of the GFI. Normally this will reset the operation of the fights.
The auto pool cleaners are controlled by a valve at your equipment. This valve allows you to adjust the suction for the optimum performance of the cleaner. Remember the more suction you provide to the cleaner, the less suction will be available to your skimmer and floor drain. Large debris collected by the cleaner will be deposited in the pump basket at the equipment. Be sure to clean the pump basket regularly in order to maintain proper system flow.
Whenever you remove the cleaner from the pool, be sure to remove the hose from the head and keep all the sections of the hose straight. If the hose develops a permanent bend, the cleaner will not operate properly.
The Pool Vac™ or Kreepy Krauly™ is warranted by the manufacturer. Be sure to complete the warranty information card that comes with the cleaner and send it to the manufacturer.
A vacuum head and hose are recommended options for your pool. The system is simple to set up and use. The vacuum suction is extremely powerful. Be sure to follow the instructions below to achieve the best results.
There are two main valves at the equipment of your pool/spa; they are the suction line control valve, and the return line control valve. These valves determine where the pump takes water from and where it returns water. In the normal pool mode the pump takes water from the pool and returns it to the pool. In the spa operation mode, you change the valves so that the pump takes from the spa and returns to the spa.
Although your plaster interior appears to be white, it is really an off-white sprinkled with a "salt and pepper" condition. The initial application appears pure white, particularly on a sunny day, but as it is troweled, smoothed, becomes dry, and is filled with water, it will become "off-white" in color with certain areas shades of cloudy white to gray. These conditions are due to the minute impurities in the aggregate and the way the plaster reacts to the introduction of water. This is simply a characteristic of the material and cannot be avoided.
Small cracks, called "checks", sometimes occur on the interior surface of the pool, initially or at some future date, and do not necessarily indicate any structural deficiency. Primarily high temperatures, changes in temperatures, humidity changes, wind, expansion, and contraction of the material and other factors cause them. As much as possible is done to preclude these checks from developing, but it is almost impossible to eliminate some checks from forming and, certainly, not feasible to guarantee against their appearing.
It is recognized and accepted that, because of the extreme temperatures in the Southwest during the summer which could vary from 140 degrees on the surface of the deck in the daytime to 60 degrees at night, or in the winter from 80 degrees to 20 degrees on the deck surface, there will be characteristic expanding and contracting of the concrete which will cause cracks to form. Expansion joints have been installed to absorb some of the movement, however, they cannot prevent it. It is impossible to guarantee that some of these cracks will occur. Therefore, they are not covered by your guarantee. You are strongly encouraged to maintain consistent moisture content in your yard to help minimize ground movement.
You are cautioned not to flood areas, particularly around planters. It is quite common that flooding of areas around decks may cause soil expansion, resulting in damage to decks. Such damage is not covered by your guarantee. All landscaping should be such that it directs water away from deck areas.
Your swimming pools water may appear to be clean but: Bacteria, which can be the cause of infection, cannot be detected by the naked eye. Dissolved minerals in your water can show up as stains or scale on your pools wall. A proper chemical program will insure that bacteria, algae and other contaminants are destroyed. It will also protect your investment and keep it looking beautiful.
By knowing the gallonage of your pool, you can quickly determine the correct amount of chemicals that are needed to insure proper sanitation. The calculation for total gallonage is quite simple:
It is important to start with balanced water. We recommend that you take a sample of your pools water to your local pool service store. Use a clean plastic container. Take a water sample from the deep end of the pool, about 18" down, away from any return line fittings. The staff at the store will normally test the water for free and make recommendations as to what is needed to balance the water. Once the water is balanced you can rest assured that you are getting the most out of your chemical treatments.
Total alkalinity is the measure of certain minerals in the water. These minerals act as buffering agents and allow you to readily control your PH when in the correct range. In plaster pools, under normal conditions, a measurement of 70-120 ppm is ideal. Total alkalinity should be adjusted before adjusting PH. There are specific products on the market designed to adjust your alkalinity. Consult your local pool service store.
Another aspect of balanced water has to do with hardness. Certain 'metals' need to be present in pool water to satisfy water's aggressive need for metals. This is measured in terms of calcium and magnesium. If low hardness levels occur, your pool water will seek out its needs, attacking and corroding your equipment and pool walls. To correct low hardness levels a Calcium Hardness Increaser is used. The desired range for plaster pools is 200-250 ppm. If high levels of hardness are encountered, other problems may occur. Cloudy water and scaling of your pool walls, tile, and equipment. To help keep high levels of hardness in check, a Stain, Scale, or Metal Control is used.
The most commonly used disinfectant in swimming pools is chlorine. Chlorine in its natural state is a gas. This gas is hard to handle and very dangerous. Chlorine gas is combined with other elements to produce a safe, effective means of combating bacteria, algae, and other organic wastes. When chlorine is first added to your pools water, it must first satisfy an initial demand. This simply means that you must destroy all bacteria, algae, and organic wastes before maintaining a sufficient level of chlorine protection. This level is called your chlorine residual or free chlorine. A good level to maintain would be between 1.0 - 2.0 ppm. Lower levels will not protect the bather and higher levels are a waste. Water temperature, air temperature, bather load, debris carried into your pool by wind and rain will are all factors on how much chlorine will be used.
Swimmer wastes such as suntan oil, perspiration, and urine, add unwanted debris to your pool water. Rain and severe storms also contribute to this condition. This can cause cloudy water and irritating conditions to both the skin and eyes. These conditions greatly retard the ability of your chlorine residual to work effectively. A periodic boost to your chlorine residual is needed. This is termed " super chlorination" or "shock treatment". Super chlorination introduces approximately five times the normal chlorine level. This will rid your pool of unwanted wastes and help restore the sparkle to your pool water. Super chlorination is best done in the evening. The next day, allow your residual chlorine level to drop to the desired range of 1.0 - 2.0 ppm before using.
Algae come in several forms; free floating or water clinging; and it can be in shades of green, yellow, brown or black. It can be introduced by rain, wind or even a bather's swimming suit. Unfortunately, sunlight and warm weather create a climate for algae to reproduce and grow.
As with any problem, the best cure is prevention. It is recommended to use a good algaecide after super chlorination to control algae. Follow the directions on the label. The algaecide will work in conjunction with the chlorine to destroy the algae and help to prevent its reoccurrences. If you have a specific problem, contact your local pool supply store.
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